Free PDF Manual Guide

Humankind has made a habit of one-upping the creator when it can benefit in some material sense. We figured out early on that playing match-maker to an ass and a horse produced a creature with the strength and stamina of a horse, but the nimble sure-footedness of an ass. (That would be a donkey for those of you not up on your cross-breeding techniques.) Given that as enthusiasts, we all want our cars to run like a thoroughbred and handle like, well… an ass, the notion of installing a larger engine in a lighter chassis is appealing. The same rules that apply in nature pertain to the automotive world as well: The more closely related the parent forms, the more likely they are to produce a viable hybrid. Dropping a B16A from a Japanese domestic market Civic Type R into a US-spec Civic will be a whole lot easier, cheaper and more successful than dropping an NSX engine into the same car—though this has not stopped people from trying.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

TOOLS REQUIRED
Phillips screwdriver
Flat-tip screwdriver
Stubby Phillips screwdriver
10 mm combination wrench
Clip remover
8 mm and 10 mm Sockets
Ratchet
Small flat-tip screwdriver
Contact cleaner
Shop towel
[Read the rest of this entry...]

The AEM Cold Air System is the result of extensive development on a wide variety of cars. Each system is engineered for the particular application. The AEM Cold Air System differs from all others in several ways. We take the inlet air from outside of the engine compartment where the inlet air is considerably cooler than the hot underhood air. The cooler inlet air temperature translates to more power during the combustion process because cool air is denser than warm air. AEM has conducted extensive inlet air temperature studies and we have seen temperature reductions of up to 50 degrees by pulling air from outside of the engine compartment. The air mass flow to the engine is increased because of the increased airflow and reduced inlet temperature, which translates to more power. The AEM Cold Air Systems are 50 states Street Legal (some model and years still pending) and come with complete instructions for ease of installation.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1) Getting started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake.
c) Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio.
d) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
e) If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

This kit has been engineered to be an easy, bolt on upgrade to your standard Jackson Racing supercharger kit. It will raise your boost approximately 2 psi. As such, it has been designed to be a “Race Only” kit. Because of the “Race Only” design criteria, the C.A.R.B. Exemption Order number supplied with your Jackson Racing Supercharger Kit does NOT cover this product. Therefore, this racing boost upgrade is legal in California only on racing vehicles, which may never be used upon a highway. Other states may have laws governing the use of this product. Check local regulations before installation. Our kit was designed with and performs best when used with a good header, cat-back exhaust, and a good high flow air filter. Other non-specified accessories or engine components may affect your specific boost and horsepower output.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

Part Content:
This will also space out the entire wheel, widening the track width of the vehicle. Fender clearances should be checked on lowered cars, and longer lug studs or wheel bolts are usually required. Note: The Wheel Industry Council has issued guidelines advising wheel spacers not be used. It is the responsibility of the customer to insure wheel spacers are properly specified and installed.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

1. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect the vehicle’s negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the air temperature sensor electrical connection as shown.
3. Unclip the battery cable from the air inlet duct as shown.
4. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the air inlet duct as shown.
5. Remove the air inlet duct.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

Installation
1. Begin by removing the battery, battery tray and fuse box.
2. Locate and remove the factory ECU under the passenger side dash.
3. Remove the factory engine harness from the engine bay and under the dash. There will be 2 10mm bolts under the battery tray holding the harness in place. Remove this plate/grommet to reuse with your K series engine harness.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

Type, Size, Shape, and Materials
The Civic Hybrid is a 5-passenger gasoline-electric hybrid vehicle powered by a gasoline engine and an electric motor. The Civic Hybrid resembles a Civic 4-door sedan, except that it has a roof antenna above the windshield. It also has the words, “Hybrid” and “Gasoline-Electric,” on the back. Most chassis and body components are made of standard materials like steel, aluminum, and plastic. A few parts are made of magnesium.
[Read the rest of this entry...]

The NASA Honda Challenge Series was created to meet the needs of Honda/Acura owners looking for a series specifically tailored to accommodate Honda and Acura vehicles that are modified to a degree which might be found illegal in other racing series, yet provide a set of rules that would still accommodate existing Honda race cars and provide a “showcase” to unify the field.
[Read the rest of this entry...]